The Viterbo area is a land with a very ancient history, whose legends still resurface in each of the villages that can be found here. Magnificent places, sometimes spectacular examples of perfectly preserved medieval towns, which, over the centuries, have brought prosperity to Tuscia by welcoming illustrious guests and giving birth to others.
It is no coincidence that Viterbo, the capital of this region, is also known as the “City of the Popes.” While the history of its Papal Palace is well known even beyond its borders, other historical treasures lie hidden within the strong, long walls that enclose the city.
In the Middle Ages, Viterbo was considered a very important city. Among the reasons for its fame was its role as a crossroads for pilgrimages to Rome, thanks to the presence of the Via Francigena. This historic route still allows visitors to explore the city’s oldest neighborhoods today, including San Pellegrino, the largest medieval district in Europe.
The Churches and the Beautiful Galiana
In its vast historic center, Viterbo hides numerous wonders and legends. No wonder the city is also famous for its beautiful historic fountains, scattered in almost every square of the old town. Less known, but equally beautiful, are its many churches. From the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, under the shadow of the Papal Palace, to the more distant Church of San Francesco, near Piazza della Rocca, the churches of Viterbo are large and majestic, rich in anecdotes and stories waiting to be discovered.
Among them, we cannot forget the Church of Sant’Angelo di Spatha, located in Piazza del Plebiscito, the administrative heart of the city, home to the Town Hall and the Prefecture. This small church, which may not stand out for its almost anonymous exterior, is well known for housing, beside its main entrance, a 2nd-century AD Etrusco-Roman white marble sarcophagus. It is, of course, a reproduction (the original is kept at the Civic Museum in Piazza Crispi), but the story behind the figure it is associated with is nothing short of legendary.
“In the year 1138, the maiden Galiana, incomparable in beauty and virtue, the flower and honor of the homeland, was buried in this marble tomb. Upon her death, all of Tuscia seemed saddened, and every joy of the city was extinguished.” This is what we can read on her epitaph, and the story of this girl, Galiana, still arouses interest due to its many mysteries. The beautiful woman from Viterbo was destined to be a sacrifice to a huge wild boar that once protected and threatened the city. The legend tells that when the beast appeared to devour the beautiful Galiana, it was attacked by a lion, which devoured it before disappearing into the forest from which it had come. Galiana, and thus the city of Viterbo, were freed from this “debt” of blood, and the people of Viterbo chose from that moment to honor the lion, making it the symbol of the city.
The Towers and the Fury of Pope Urban V
Many centuries ago, around 1300, the skyline of the city of Viterbo was vastly different from what can be admired today from various points of the capital. The city was known for hosting numerous towers, symbols of the many noble families, many of Roman origin, who vied for power over the surrounding area.
Today, these towers are few in comparison to those of the past, and even fewer remain intact. Notable examples include the Tower of San Biele, just outside Porta Romana and a key point on the Via Francigena, the Tower of the Scacciaricci in the heart of San Pellegrino, and the Clock Tower located in Piazza del Plebiscito. However, centuries ago, many more towers rose in each of the historic districts, particularly in Pianoscarano, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city. Visiting this unique and magnificent area, rich in beautiful views, narrow streets filled with flowers, and the aromas of traditional local cuisine, one can still admire many of the foundations of the towers that once defined it. These towers, now truncated and only a few meters tall compared to their original height, are linked to one of the most fascinating stories of Viterbo and its relationship with the Church.
At the beginning of this story, the year was 1367, and the very unforgiving French pope Urban V chose to stay in Viterbo on his way back to Rome from Avignon, which had been abandoned as the papal residence. It had been 86 years since a pope had been seen in the city, and for this reason, some of the people of Viterbo hoped to make a good impression and perhaps convince the popes to return here permanently. However, as often happens when too many expectations are created, something went wrong. It is said that some of the pope’s French servants decided to wash a dog in the Pianoscarano fountain, one of the oldest and most beloved by the locals. The act, which failed to consider that everyone in the area used the fountain to collect drinking water, sparked a full-blown revolt by the people of Pianoscarano, which resulted in injuries and deaths on both sides: the locals and the papal faction. Urban V intervened by violently suppressing the conflict, hanging ten Viterbesi and arresting many more. Penitent, the remorseful people of Pianoscarano demolished the fountain as an act of atonement, but the pope, still unsatisfied, ordered the destruction of all the towers in the neighborhood, of which only magnificent yet truncated foundations remain today.
The Fountains: A Historical and Artistic Memory of the City
Viterbo is not only the City of the Popes, but also the City of Fountains. The capital of Tuscia is, in fact, not only known for its papal history, but also for hosting some of the most beautiful and ancient fountains in Italy. This heritage, scattered throughout every corner of the historic city center, makes it, in effect, a vast open-air museum rich in art and history waiting to be discovered and shared.
As you walk through Viterbo, you can admire a fountain in almost every square of the city. Let’s begin our imaginary journey at Piazza della Morte, home to the beautiful San Tommaso Fountain, one of the oldest in Viterbo. From here, it’s a short walk to the Duomo Hill, where you’ll find the Museum Complex, the Cathedral of San Lorenzo, and the fountain in the Loggia of Blessings, located within the adjacent Papal Palace. Our visit can continue by crossing the nearby Piazza del Gesù to the stunning fountain at its center, which captivates many tourists daily. But every corner of Viterbo hides one, and discovering them all becomes a real treasure hunt for visitors eager for history and knowledge.
Among the fountains that should not be missed is the one in the square of the same name, Piazza Fontana Grande. Built in 1212, Fontana Grande is probably the most famous of those in the heart of the city and a great example of Gothic style on a Romanesque base. It was created by the master stonemasons Pietro and Bertoldo di Giovanni. Historical documents show that the term “grande” (large) first appeared in a notarial protocol dated May 11, 1483, written by Tommaso d’Andrea, which mentions a house located in the district of “Fontana grande.” However, the name became official only in 1565. Its symbolism is also significant. The Greek cross shape of the lower basin, as well as the central column supporting two stacked bowls and crowned with a pinnacle, are the result of a series of modifications that took place over the centuries, starting with those carried out in 1279 by order of the podestà Orso Orsini. This was followed by restorations in 1424, also financed by Pope Martin V, which included work on the lower basin and the reconstruction of the central part of the column and the four lion heads. The distinctive pyramids, now visible in the lower part of the structure, date back to 1827 and were executed according to a design by architect Domenico Lucchi.
Visiting the City of the Popes and missing the chance to explore its fountains, which have even been immortalized in a series of stamps now considered collectibles, would be a real shame. Even more so because throughout the historic center, there are numerous museums and churches that define the city, making it a place of immense artistic and historical interest and value.
